Moselle, Verdun.

Our next aire was at Pont-a-Mousson, at a marina on the Moselle just north of Nancy. 3 Spaces left (hurrah) and even a privileged view of the typical European river barges going quietly by. Walking into the town we saw a memorial fountain for US ambulancemen who died in WW1.  Every town seems to have at least one war memorial.

We stopped at a German WW1 cemetery, and were quite taken by the differnece between this and the commonwealth cemeteries we have seen before.  In contrast to pristine lawns, the grass here had a more, shall we say, natural feel; the rows of simple metal crosses were very sombre, and gave only a name, rank and date.  Quite often, 2 or more names appeared on a single cross, and many said "unknown soldier".  We were a little surprised, a few miles further on, to find an American Cemetery, which we soon realised was WW2, and immaculately kept.  Not quite sure about the piped music in the chapel ! These marble crosses had much more information, and the whole complex was apparently staffed full time.

We continued along the road to Verdun.  Not a great start when we got there, as the TIC was closed for lunch, (absurd), and no car park signs to be seen anywhere. Still, we found ourslves a nice little spot to park, outside a sports complex, free, and walked back into the town.  Suitable armed with a map, our first stop was the cathedral.  From the outside, this looked as if it needed more than a little TLC: its battle scars were still visible.  However, inside it was an unexpectedly lovely, tranquil oasis, with romanesque vaulting, a crypt, and a pretty and quiet cloister.

Back out into the September sunshine, and to the Citadelle. Built after the Franco-Prussian war, and the loss of Alsace-Moselle in 1871, the Citadelle and Verdun's other forts were intended as the nation's defensive line.  The battle of Verdun began on 21 February 1916, and thereafter, the Citadelle and its 7km of tunnels became a communication centre, dormitories for the troops, powder and ammo depots, bakery, infirmary, etc etc.  We were taken, on a tiny train, through a fw of these dark tunnels, and saw re-enactments of scenes relating to this period in the Citadelle's history.

An imposing monument in Verdun is the Victory monument, which contains the so-called golden book.  This is in fact a large card index, with the names of all Verdun's dead in WW1, and the monument was dedicated in 1922. 

Tonight's aire is in the countryside not far from Verdun, on a farm near a pretty pond. A fairly quiet road:  at least two cars an hour. An incessantly barking dog and a hungry-looking miaowing cat were competing with mooing cows going in for milking.  We mentioned the unseasonable heatwave to the lady running the aire: she began bemoaning the sun-baked fields, and said they are unable to plough because of the dust, and all the rivers are dry. It's not often we hope for rain.