Belgium to Arnhem (Holland), on to Beekbergen (near Appeldoorn) and Oosterbeek to Amsterdam.

27/10/2012 18:21

Today was a bit of a marathon drive, crossing the border into the Netherlands, taking in Nijmegen then Arnhem.

We stopped on the way at Venray (near Venloe) to see the war cemetery.  No parking was provided, so being rather large and needing to keep out of the way, we got quite well acquainted with a rather large hedge at the side of the road.  It was a nicely laid out commonwealth cemetery, with flowers between the graves in lively autumn colours. 

On to Arnhem, and I wouldn't recommend the day we had for the faint hearted. Minnie "located" a TIC, but we could not park nearby, so we paid for 45 minutes parking as close as we could, and walked, carrying the Sat Nav the last 800m.  However, when we got there, it was not actually a TIC at all. We asked directions, and were told it was another 10 minute brisk walk, further round in a loop. Of course, by the time we actually located the TIC and got some information, there was only about 12 minutes left on the car park ticket. Back, hotfoot, to rescue the motorhome before we got a fine.

Arnhem Bridge (A Bridge too far) has an information centre underneath: a kind of mini-museum with interactive displays and information leaflets. Informative, and interesting, and the curator was very keen for us to enjoy our visit, and helped interpret the information. A sudden downpour soaked everything in sight within seconds, just as we approached the museum.

For the night, we did not want to drive all the way back to Nijmegen, so found a campsite at Beekbergen.  This was off a side road, but the Sat Nav was having a few problems locating the correct road, trying to send us up a no-entry road.   To find it you had to turn into what seemed to be a slip road, running parallel with the main road, then turn into the road itself.  Simple once you know how. When we found the site, the ground appeared extremely soggy, but the water was on the surface only, and the ground itself was quite firm. There were several tents and awnings there which seemed to have suffered in the afternoon's tempest.

The next morning, off to the Airborne Museum at Oosterbeek, near Arnhem. This is the museum telling the story of the Arnhem Bridge, and the surrounding villages. Outside the museum, a plaque set the scene, "To the People of Gelderland" saying:

"50 years ago British and Polish airborne soldiers fought here against overwhelming odds to open the way into Germany and bring the war to an early end. Instead we brought death and destruction, for which you have never blamed us. This stone marks our admiration for your great courage, remembering especially the women who tended our wounded.  In the long winter that followed your families risked death by hiding allied soldiers and airmen, while members of the resistance helped many to safety. You took us into your homes as fugitives and friends.  We took you forever into our hearts. This strong bond will continue long after we are all gone."

We got into the museum for a reduced rate because of a voucher from yesterday's visit. There was a video presentation to start with, and some well-behaved Dutch children were filtering through the exhibition spaces as we watched in English, waiting for their screening of the Dutch version. As we continued, at various listening posts, eye-witnesses gave personal video accounts of their experiences. Many of these were very moving, and bore witness to both the bravery and suffering of this time. A British glider pilot told how he had a metal shard in his eye, then got shot in the thigh, and described this as a "bit inconvenient". He jumped into a slit trench, and a stick grenade went off in his face, and broke his jaw. At this point, he had to admit he was injured... There were also press photographs and other material laid out in understandable ways. 4 floors of exhibits gave plenty of food for thought.  We spent 3 hours there, but could easily have stayed longer.

The roads and drivers here seem, on the whole, to be much better than in Belgium.  Lorries considerately drive in the first lane, even on a five lane motorway. Most drivers stay within the speed limit, and nobody cuts anyone up. Even motorbikes behave, although in the towns, mopeds, scarily, drive on the pavement.  Minnie came into her own, guiding us indispensibly through multiple complicated junctions all the way to Amsterdam, to Droompark Spaarnwoude.